Dishware, serving items, desk linens—a sideboard packs a complete lot of cupboard space into a comparatively small footprint, making it a helpful addition to any family. A sturdy, high-quality one can depart a thousand-dollar dent in your funds, however as This Outdated Home basic contractor Tom Silva demonstrates, you possibly can improve just a few inventory kitchen base cupboards with molding, furnishings ft, and knobs to supply a handcrafted piece for a fraction of the price of shopping for one ready-made.

Go for unfinished 15- or 18-inch cupboards fitted with doorways and operable drawers (not the faux drawer fronts used for sink cupboards) and take a day to place all of the items collectively. Your good-looking creation will flip heads at dinner events for years to return.

The design for this sideboard relies on one discovered within the guide The Discover, by Stan Williams.

Paint: Fabulous Purple in semigloss; Valspar. Rub n’ Buff Metallic Finishes in Vintage Gold; Amaco.

How one can Flip Kitchen Cupboards right into a Sideboard

Illustration by Jennifer Stimpson

Turned ft and moldings will lend your completed piece some ornamental aptitude. You may discover all of the supplies you want at any giant residence heart.

Minimize Record

(obtain plan right here)

• one sheet of -inch cabinet-grade birch plywood
• three 18-inch base cupboards
• ½x1 lattice strips
• mattress molding
• 1×3 furring strips
• ½x2 lattice strips
• three push door latches
• six knobs
• 4 furnishings ft
• 4 nook foot plates

Procuring Record

1. ½-inch cupboard grade birch plywood. Get a 4×8 sheet.
2. 18-inch base cupboards. Get three.
3. 1×3 furring strips. Get two 10 foot boards.
4. ½x2 lattice strips. Get two 8 foot boards.
5. ½x1 lattice strips. Get two 6 footers.
6. ¾ mattress molding. Get one 8 footer.
7. Push door catches. Get three.
8. Drawer knobs. Get six.
9. Furnishings ft. Get 4.
10. Nook foot plates. Get 4.
11. Medium grit sandpaper.
12. Wooden putty.
13. Latex primer and paint.
14. Metallic gold antiquing wax.

Step 1: Take away the Toekick

Photograph by Wendell T. Webber

To shorten every cupboard to accommodate ft, switch a line that is flush with the underside fringe of the face body to the toekick, sides, and again of every cupboard utilizing a mix sq.. Take away the surplus materials utilizing a hand noticed.

Step 2: Fasten the Cupboards Collectively

Photograph by Wendell T. Webber

Sandwich two 1×3 furring strips between the cupboards vertically to behave as spacers. Utilizing a drill/driver and 1 5/8 inch deck screws, fasten the cupboards collectively alongside the size of the strips, sinking the screws from either side for added power.

Step 3: Cowl the Ends

Photograph by Wendell T. Webber

Nail two 1×3 furring strips vertically to the unfinished ends of the joined cupboards, back and front. If the sting of the face body extends past the facet, set the entrance furring strip behind it, as proven right here.

Utilizing a round noticed, reduce two items of cabinet-grade plywood to cowl the total sides of the joined cupboards. Use end nails to safe them to the strips. Collectively, the furring strips and the plywood on the perimeters construct out the ends of the cupboards sufficient to match the area between them.

Step 4: Clad the Entrance

Photograph by Wendell T. Webber

Minimize a ½x1 lattice strip 1 inch longer than the width of the joined cupboards. Connect it horizontally, on edge beneath the drawers, utilizing end nails.

To cowl up the spacers and uncovered plywood edges between the cupboards and on the ends, connect vertical ½x2 stiles reduce to dimension above and beneath the strip you simply connected.

Step 5: Connect Foot Plates

Photograph by Wendell T. Webber

Screw foot plates to the bottoms of the cupboard corners.

Step 6: Screw in Ft

Photograph by Wendell T. Webber

Thread the ft onto the plates till they sit snugly. Fastidiously flip the piece upright, standing it on its ft.

Step 7: Add the Knobs

Photograph by Wendell T. Webber

Drill two holes for the knobs in every drawer, ensuring they’re centered vertically and positioned about 4 inches in from every finish. Maintain every knob in place as you tighten the screw from the within of the drawer.

Step 8: Mount the Door Latches

Photograph by Wendell T. Webber

Inside every cupboard, in the direction of the highest, nail a block in opposition to the again of the face body the place the push latch will go. Screw the latch into place so it is flush with the entrance of the body, then screw the corresponding magnetic plate to the within of the door.

Tip: To place the magnetic plate correctly on the within of the door, shade the again of the plate with a chalk, lipstick, or a felt-tipped marker, then affix the plate to the latch, the marker facet going through out. Whenever you shut the door, the inked plate will depart a slight mark on the within of the door the place the plate ought to be positioned.

Step 9: Make the High

Photograph by Wendell T. Webber

Utilizing a round noticed guided by a straightedge fence, reduce a chunk of plywood to the total width and depth of the piece, together with the stiles on the entrance and the completed sides. Safe the highest by the body of every cupboard utilizing a hammer and end nails. Set the nails beneath the floor of the wooden with a nail set.

Step 10: Trim the High

Affix mattress molding, mitered on the corners, to the facet and entrance edges of the highest of the sideboard, utilizing end nails. Fill any seams and fastener holes with wooden putty utilizing a putty knife.

Step 11: Sand and Paint the Piece

Photograph by Wendell T. Webber

Sand the floor of the sideboard easy with medium-grit sandpaper. Apply two coats of paint or stain and let dry fully. Spotlight particulars with a metallic wax end, akin to Rub ‘N Buff.

Instruments: